Connect
Collapse bottom bar
Subscribe
Fly Tying

Tying the Signature Series Intruder

by Scott Howell   |  September 14th, 2018 0
Signature Series Intruder

The Intruder’s effectiveness can be attributed to the fly’s large silhouette, created with limited materials. On top of sinking and swimming well, it casts easily. Photo: Scott Howell

It’s impossible to talk about the Intruder without first touching on its history. The Signature Series Intruder was not a simple case of sitting down at the vise one evening and creating a new pattern. It started back in the early ’90s with a circle of guides at an Alaskan wilderness lodge.

The first Intruder-style fly was the brainchild of Ed Ward, and was originally designed for king salmon.This shank-style fly was a solution for creating huge, plug like silhouettes that couldn’t be achieved on conventional fly hooks. While fishing these flies for kings, it was impossible not to notice by the catch of huge Alaskan rainbows. It didn’t take long for us to realize that if rainbows couldn’t resist the fly, steelhead might have a similar problem. Unfortunately, we’d have to endure a grueling summer of guiding before we’d get to swim these patterns in steelhead waters.

That September I crammed into a truck with Ed Ward and Jerry French and headed for B.C.with my drift boat in tow.

Despite low-water conditions, we fished the Intruder—and it worked. The standout prototype was an olive version Ed had created. At the time, we thought it looked a lot like a sculpin. In actuality, I think it was Jerry’s animated description that fit it best:With fly in hand—pretending to swim it through the air—he said the fish must think it looks like some kind of intruder. It all took off from there.

Testing Grounds

The next winter, I fished with Ed on the Skagit, and he asked me if I was still using big flies. I proudly showed him my newest creation, only to have it dwarfed by what looked like a small bird tied to his line. From that point on our Intruders grew bigger and bigger until one day I could barely cast them.

We never found a size too big for the steelhead but we’ve since backed off on the giant sizes to end up with a pattern that still provides a large silhouette with limited materials, so it sinks and swims well, and casts easily.

Signature Series Intruder

Intruder development has been an ongoing process, says fly tier and Oregon steelhead guide Scott Howell (above). New material introductions have defined its evolutionary stages. Photo: Scott Howell

Intruder development has been an ongoing process since day one. Introductions of new and different materials have defined its evolutionary stages. The first Intruders were tied with marabou, and were basically large knockoffs of George Cook’s marabou flies.From marabou the fly progressed to schlappen and then turkey feathers, which provided exceptionally long hackles. I thought Intruders would always be tied with turkey feathers but about the time I’d collected a lifetime’s worth, Ed found and started tying with ostrich feathers, which were even longer. I’ve since narrowed my Intruders down to two different styles in an assortment of colors. The Signature Series Intruder has an ostrich hackle/saddle shellback, which creates a large silhouette, with a bulky hair collar behind the front hackles.

Marabou and rabbit-strip flies can be heavy and difficult to cast once wet. The Intruder’s design solves both problems. First, the large hackle dressed over a fairly sparse body produces a substantial silhouette with less material. This allows the hackle to swim freely, giving the flies lifelike action. Second, since the Intruder’s materials don’t hold water as readily as rabbit strips or marabou, they are easier to cast.

Another crucial Intruder component is its heavy dumbell eyes. Lead or tungsten eyes allow sparsely dressed patterns to sink fast. It is also important to note that the Intruder’s design makes it less buoyant—with less water resistance—than more heavily dressed flies. This means Intruders rise slower in the water column once they’re under tension and swinging.

Confidence is Crucial

The Intruder is now my mainstay for nearly all steelhead fishing. Even under normal summer water conditions, I find natural-colored Intruders catch more steelhead than the same old Green Butt Skunks or other traditional patterns. Whether trying to pull fish in cold water, or just knowing I’m throwing something different with the Intruder, I always have confidence in it.

When fishing the Intruder, cast slightly upstream and make a big upstream mend.This takes tension off the fly and allows it to sink down to the fish’s level. Just as the line is about to come tight, kick another small mend in it, straightening the remaining slack line. It’s important to get this second mend in before the line comes tight and the fly starts to swing. Otherwise, you’ll lift the fly out of the zone.

I’m a big believer in not overmending the line. Once the fly is fishing, let it swim. Follow the line around with your rod tip and wait for the pull.

FFMP-081200-FTB-03

Signature Series Intruder (Cerise/Orange) By Scott Howell. Photo: David J. Seigfried

HOOK: #4/0 Mustad 36890 with hook bend cut off.

THREAD: 6/0 Uni-Thread.

EYES: Nickel-plated lead or tungsten dumbbell eyes.

TAG: Silver Mylar tinsel.

BUTT: Orange angora goat.

TAIL: Cerise ostrich herl.

BODY: Silver Mylar tinsel and fluorescent orange deer hair.

HACKLE: Cerise ostrich herl (20-25).

COLLAR: Cerise rabbit wrapped around dumbbell eyes.

WING: Cerise ostrich herl.

TOPPING: Two orange hackles.

Signature Series Intruder Tying Steps:

FFMP-081200-FTB-05

1. Tie nickel-plated lead or tungsten dumbbell eyes onto the bottom of the hook shank. Tie on a short, 1/4-inch silver Mylar tinsel tag on the back of the shank.Double over a piece of 10-pound-test monofilament, create a loop at the Mylar tag, and tie down the ends of the monofilament along the length of the hook shank.

FFMP-081200-FTB-06

2. Dub a short orange Angora goat butt at thefront of the tag and over the base of the monofilament loop. Tie in a clump of 20 to 25 cerise ostrich herls for the tail. It should be 2 to 21/2 inches long.Tie down the butts of the ostrich herl rather than cutting them off.

FFMP-081200-FTB-07

3. Wrap a silver Mylar tinsel body over the ostrich butts. In front of the tinsel body, spin a large clump of stiff fluorescent orange deer hair. Trim the butt ends, leaving a small Muddler clump or bulb to help hold the hackles out.

FFMP-081200-FTB-08

4. Spin 25 to 30 cerise ostrich herls into a dubbing loop and wrap them behind the dumbbell eyes. The ostrich hackles should extend back to just past the end of the shank. An alternative to the dubbing loop is to tie clumps of ostrich in front of the deer hair and evenly distribute the ostrich around the shank.

Create another dubbing loop and place a 11/2- to 2-inch rabbit strip in it. Once the fur is trapped in the loop, cut off the hide and spin the loop.Wrap the dubbed rabbit around the shank two times and then make two or three figure-eight wraps around the dumbbell eyes. Leave the rabbit fur fairly long, it provides a nice collar to finish the fly.

FFMP-081200-FTB-09

5. For the topping, tie in another clump of cerise ostrich under an overwing of two paired orange saddles. Whip-finish, and cement the head.

*Scott Howell is a native Oregonian and year-round steelhead guide. He runs his guide business (scotthowellfishing.com) out of the Steamboat Inn on the North Umpqua River.

Load Comments ( )

Related posts:

  1. Tibor Signature Series Trout Reel
  2. Pink Intruder: More March Madness
  3. Scott G-Series
  4. New Scott Women’s Fly Rod Series the A4W
  5. Fly Tying Dubbing Loops
back to top