I use two basic techniques. My favorite approach is to fish the runs and pools with a traditional steelhead wet-fly swing, which works best on fresh, aggressive fish in water temperatures exceeding 38 degrees F. It's the only technique I use on the Cattaraugus and the larger pools and runs on the other tributaries during fall.

" . . . YOU HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO USE TRADITIONAL WEST COAST STEELHEADING OR EAST COAST ATLANTIC SALMON TECHNIQUES."

The traditional wet-fly swing is new to these rivers, but it's extremely effective and most enjoyable and satisfying. While it may not always result in the most hookups, I'm more concerned with how I catch a steelhead than how many I catch.

You can sink a fly in a number of ways. The easiest is to use a floating line, a long leader and split-shot or weighted putty added to the leader, or you can simply use heavily weighted flies. I use a sinking-tip line or a mini-tip looped to the front of a floating line. The fly fishes near bottom, where most takes will occur, but aggressive fish often rise in the water column to take.

Leaders with extra-fast sink rates (such as the tungsten braided leaders produced by Airflo) also work well. To sink the fly quickly in confined areas, you can use combinations of sinking leaders with weighted flies, or short, heavy mini-tips looped to the front of your line.

The wet-fly swing technique I use combines a broadside presentation at the beginning with a controlled swing at the end. I make the cast across and slightly upstream and make an upstream mend, which takes tension off the fly and allows it to sink.

When the fly reaches a point just below my casting position, it should be at the proper depth and swimming broadside to the current. I make slight upstream mends to reduce the tension on the fly, and point the rod tip downstream to maintain the broadside positioning.

As the fly reaches a point 45 degrees to my casting position, it will begin to swing across the current lanes. It should swing as slowly as possible, and I control the speed with slight upstream mends that keep the line straight to the fly. I hold the rod parallel to the water and point the tip at the fly. If the water on the inside of the current is slow, I make a downstream mend to allow the fly to complete its swing. The arm-wrenching take can come at any time.

For a solid hook-up, I allow time for the fish to turn on the fly before setting the hook (easier said than done.) And I always allow the fly to complete its swing and hang directly below me for about three seconds: Steelhead often follow a fly and take after it has stopped.

Another extremely effective technique on these waters is dead-drift nymphing. I use this method when the water temperatures are stuck in the 30s or when I fish pockets and short runs, particularly on the smaller waters or when fish are spooky due to low, clear water or heavy fishing pressure. I use a floating line, a 12- to 14-foot, small-diameter leader and weight added. A strike indicator helps me detect the soft takes.

I carefully wade close to a suspected lie to avoid alerting the fish. I cast up-and-across stream with a tuck cast to allow the fly to land first, then make an upstream mend to place the line and indicator above the fly.

When making the presentation, remember that surface currents are faster than those near the bottom, causing the strike indicator to move faster than the sunk fly: If the indicator drifts below the fly, it will quickly drag the fly. By keeping the rod tip high and at a 45-degree angle to the water, I keep a minimum of fly line on the surface, thus reducing drag.

I extend the drift by shaking out line with the rod tip. This continues the presentation until the fly has drifted to a point approximately 45 degrees below me, then I water-haul a cast upstream to repeat the drift.

If I notice any hesitation in the indicator, I immediately raise the rod tip and pull down slightly on the line to set the hook. When hooked, steelhead usually take to the air, so be prepared to bow the rod tip instantly toward the fish to prevent break-offs.

A 6- or 7-weight rod is a good match for the rivers and fish that average six pounds. I prefer a 10- or 101/2-foot rod for maximum line control. You'll need a reel with a smooth drag, a quality pair of bootfoot neoprene (5mm) or breathable waders (wear Korkers, Stablicers, or cleats), a warm winter hat, and a good pair of wool or polypropylene fishing gloves. For greater warmth, layer synthetic underwear and outerwear and add a breathable, waterproof shell to wick water vapor away from your body.


The weather can turn bad at anytime in Steelhead Alley, and often the best fishing is during the worst weather. Be prepared with appropriate outerwear and you'll be comfortable, and catch more fish.

I use a variety of flies. For the broadside-swing technique, I use big flies constructed of marabou or rabbit, materials that breathe under water. My selection includes Woolly Buggers and Bunny Buggers in black, olive, and purple, and Spey patterns such as the Bunny Spey, the Black and Chartreuse Marabou Spey, and the Purple October. I fish them on heavy tippets (0X-1X), for the take of a steelhead on a swinging fly can be violent. Most of the takes come from the rear; thus the fish never sees the tippet.

POOL ROTATION ETIQUETTE

The wet-fly swing technique--an efficient way of searching for aggressive steelhead--works best where there is room for fishermen to rotate through the pool. The etiqutte comes from Atlantic-salmon fishing: an angler casts and allows his fly to swing and stop; then he takes one step downstream and repeats the cast, swing, and step until he reaches the tailout of the pool. He then begins the rotation again at the head of the pool, behind the fly fishers who are moving down the pool, now ahead of him. This procedure allows every angler to have an opportunity at the water. The etiquette system breaks down if all anglers do not understand and cooperate.

I use a variety of egg and nymph patterns for dead-drifting. Glo-Bugs and egg clusters like the Sucker Spawn in all colors and sizes down to #12s or #14s are required for the range of conditions found on these waters. Hare's Ears, stonefly nymphs, and caddis larvae (#6 to #14) cover most of my needs for aquatic insect imitation. My tippet size varies from 2X to 4X, depending on fishing conditions.

There is a learning curve to successful steelheading, and beginners should use a quality guide who can teach modern steelheading techniques, provide current fishing information, and put clients on to fish.

With the rapid recent decline of our Northwest wild steelhead, our Great Lakes steelhead fisheries have become increasingly valuable to the long-term survival of this important gamefish species. Ironically, it is the manmade steelhead fishery of the great Steelhead Alley that today provides some of the highest-quality fly fishing for this beautiful fish. Thanks to the current enlightened management approaches on these waters, steelhead can continue to provide the best trophy fly fishing in the East, and at a price that virtually all fly fishers can afford.

If You Go
Guides and Fly Shops: Oak Orchard Fly Shop, Williamsville, NY, (716) 626-1323; International Angler, Pittsburgh, PA, (412) 782-2222; South Hills Rod & Reel, Pittsburgh, PA, (412) 344-8888; John Nagy, Pittsburgh, PA, (412) 531-5819; Mad River Outfitters, Columbus, OH, (888) 451-0363; Angling Consulting Services, Strongsville, OH, (440) 846-8864.

Guidebooks: Steelhead Guide: Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead, by John Nagy; Great Lakes Steelhead Guide, by Mike Modrzynski, (503) 653-8108.