I've always taught rod building as a three-part process. First my students "build" the rod, which includes marking the guide side of the blank, and mounting the tip-top and grip. Next, they learn how to "wrap" the line guides, hook keeper, and ferrules with thread. Finally, they finish the rod by applying varnish or epoxy rod finish to the wraps, and mounting the reel seat. This document deals with the first step in the process--building the rod. Use the links in the left-hand menu bar to continue with the last two steps.
PREPARING THE BLANK
Check the length of the rod sections and make sure they are approximately the same length. If they are unequal, trim the longer section(s) with an abrasive cut-off disk or with the edge of a file. Do not use a saw, as the teeth will tear the graphite fibers. I like to have my tip section about 1/2 inch shorter than the other section(s), as the tip-top will usually add that much length to a built rod. Do not trim any mid-sections as you may ruin your ferrule fit. Trim only from the ends of the rod if necessary.
FINDING THE GUIDE SIDE
When a rod blank is manufactured, the graphite fabric overlaps in places it is rolled onto a metal mandrel. Since the graphite is thicker in places along this seam, the blank does not have uniform stiffness around its entire circumference, and tends to have a natural curve.
To find the guide side of the blank, flex and roll the blank to find the point of least resistance. Mark the inside of this curve as your guide side.
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It's important to align the line guides with this natural curve to insure the rod will track along a single plane through your entire casting stroke. I recommend putting the guides on the inside of the curve (the weak side), but some people have success lining up their guides on the opposite side, on the outside of this curve. In either case, the rod will not tend to flex to one side or the other while casting. Never place your guides off to the side of this curve, as the rod will tend to flex to one side or the other during the cast.
To find the guide side of the blank, hold the rod section at a 45-degree angle with your open palm approximately 6-8 inches from the top, and the base resting on a flat, smooth surface. Place your other hand in the middle of the blank and using slight downward pressure, flex and rotate the section. When you find the point of least resistance to the flexing, you have found the natural curve of the blank. Mark the inside of this curve as the guide side. The weak side of the blank will be on the inside of the curve you have formed, and the thicker side will be on the outside of the curve. [Some manufacturers find the guide side of the blank and mark it before they ship the blank from the factory. THE EDITORS.]
Repeat this process for all the rod sections, and mark the guide side on each section with a China marker. Never flex a rod blank with the pieces together until the ferrules have been reinforced.
MOUNTING THE TIP-TOP
Use 5-minute epoxy to secure the tip-top to the rod tip section. Make sure it is in line with the guide marks you made on the rod section. Scoop some epoxy into the tip-top and slide it back and forth on the blank to squeeze out any air trapped inside and make sure the glue is spread evenly. Excess epoxy can be removed quickly and easily before it cures with denatured alcohol and lint-free wipes. Do not use other chemicals such as acetone, as they may seriously damage your rod blank.
PLANNNING THE ROD
Before we get serious about sticking all these parts together, it's necessary to do a little measuring and marking, and create a fly rod blueprint right on the blank. We've already marked the guide side on the blank, and later on, we'll mark the guide spacing. Your next step should be to measure the length of your reel seat, and mark the blank with masking tape to indicate where the reel seat and grip meet.
Do not glue on the real seat at this time! You will need the end of the blank exposed for turning while the rod is drying, and the added weight during wrapping is unnecessary.
To find the guide side of the blank, flex and roll the blank to find the point of least resistance. Mark the inside of this curve as your guide side.
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Next, measure the length of your grip and mark the blank again to show the point where the grip will end. Scuff the blank with sandpaper in the area where the reel seat and grip will rest to create a good gluing surface.
MOUNTING THE GRIP
If your grip does not fit your rod blank, you will have to ream out the grip hole with a tapered reamer. Remember that tapered blank needs a tapered hole in the grip for a proper fit. A tapered reamer is the best tool to use for this job, but you can make due with a round file.
The most common mistake for a beginner to make during this step is to bore out the hole too much near the ends, and not enough in the middle, creating an ill-fitting grip that will eventually rock back and forth on the blank while casting. Pay close attention to what you are doing and don't let this happen to you. The grip should be snug to the blank at every point along its length.
Once the grip fits correctly, spread epoxy over the surface of the blank where the grip will rest, and slide the grip down over the blank to its permanent resting place. Remove any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol and lint-free wipes. Slide the winding check down to the grip but do not glue it in place, as the hook-keeper wraps and rod finish will be sufficient to hold it in place.
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