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Your First Project | Selecting A Rod | Building the Rod | Wrapping the Rod | Ferrule Wraps | Finishing the Rod | Guide Size/Spacing
Wrapping The Rod
At this point, your grip and tip-top should be permanently affixed to the blank, the winding check should be resting against the grip but not glued in any way, and the guide side of the blank should be clearly marked. If you are not to that point yet, go back to the previous session, and get up to speed. In this session, we will mark the blank for guide placement, and wrap the guides and ferrules.
GUIDE PLACEMENT
Consult the guide spacing chart and use a China marker and tape measure to mark the correct guide placement for the length of rod you are building. Guide spacing measurements are to the center of the guide, measured from the tip-top with sections assembled.
Here you can see the guide placement mark (the thick, white vertical mark) and two other marks (to the left) that indicate where the thread wraps will lay over the guide feet.
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The bottom guide has been ground and tapered and is ready to wrap.
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Check that the guide feet have been properly ground to a tapered front to allow for a smooth wrapping transition up the guide foot. Some guides will come from the manufacturer ready to wrap, others will come like the one shown right (top) and will need some work with a file before you can start wrapping.
Make sure your thread is under the proper tension. (Use a thread tension device or make a tensioner by putting the spool in a cup and running the thread through a book.) The proper tension will allow you to adjust the guides slightly for final alignment after you have wrapped both feet. Wrap the thread too tightly and you will not be able to make the required final adjustments. Too much tension can even damage the blank. Finding the proper tension will require a lot of trial and error if this is your first rod, but luckily none of the wrapping is permanent until the finish is applied.
Make sure the wraps on each side of the guide will be equal lengths by measuring and marking equal distances on both sides from the bend of the guide. Eyeballing it, or using the end of the guide foot as a reference, may result in unsymetrical wraps.
| Using the blind thread wrap technique, which is very similar to a whip-finish or a nail knot, start the wrap by crossing the thread over itself. |
| | Continue capturing that section of thread until the wrap is approximately 1/8" long and closely trim the tag end. |
| | Continue wrapping up the guide foot. Use both hands to turn the rod, wrapping the thread around the blank and guide foot smoothly and evenly. Stop within 1/8" (6-8 turns) of the end of the wrap. |
| | Place a loop of thread over the wrapping area, with the loop extending forward, past the area where your wraps will end, and the tag ends extending back past where you began your wrap. Continue wrapping over the loop to the end of the wrap. |
| | Hold the wraps with your thumb or finger, release the thread tension, and cut the thread leaving a 3" tag end to place through the loop. |
| | While still maintaining pressure on the wraps, pull the loop tag ends, and draw the wrapping thread under itself until the tag end comes free. |
| | Pull the tag end of the wrapping thread until the wraps are secure and trim with an X-acto knife. |
| | Use a thread burnisher to close to close any gaps. Remember to work from the outside edges of the wrap toward the center, pushing each thread wrap up against its nieghbor for a smooth, professional finish. |
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Bob Widgren owns Los Pinos Custom Rods in Albuquerque, New Mexico. He has built more than 5,000 custom rods. You can find his business on-line at www.flyrodcrafters.com/.

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