APPLYING THE ROD FINISH

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There are two kinds of rod finish; rod varnish, and two-part epoxy rod finish. Both are used to cover thread wraps and inscriptions, and give a rod that glossy, finished look, but they have different strengths and weaknesses.

In the days before graphite rods and epoxy finishes, rod makers used rod varnish to finish their wraps, and bamboo rod makers used rod varnish (typically an exterior gloss spar) over the entire rod section. Today, rod blank manufacturers use an epoxy exterior finish on their blanks, and there is no need to put any kind of finish on the blank itself. You only need to finish the wraps and cover any inscriptions you may want on the rod.

The advantage of using a good rod varnish is that it is more forgiving that epoxy. It soaks into the thread wraps quickly, and preserves a uniform tone. If used sparingly, the rod doesn't even have to be rotated while drying. The disadvantage of using just a varnish is that you have to apply 6-10 coats to get the same protection as epoxy finish.

Most rod manufacturers use only epoxy rod finish, as it is a relatively quick, two-step process. However, if you are not extremely careful when applying epoxy finish, you may end up with blotchy color due to an uneven distribution/saturation of epoxy.

To take advantage of the best qualities of both finishes, I use either Gudebrod Rod Varnish or spar varnish depending on the final color tone I want. The Gudebrod will lighten when dry, while the spar varnish will remain dark. But instead of adding another six or more coats of varnish, I add two thin coats of epoxy. These two finishes are perfectly compatible as long as the second coat is applied after the first has cured.

When using two-part epoxy rod finish, follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and measure and mix the finish in approved mixing cups only. Unapproved mixing cups or sticks may introduce foreign chemicals and result in the finish not curing properly.

The rod must be rotated for at least two hours after the epoxy application, or gravity will cause a buildup of finish on one side of the blank. I have a machine that turns my blanks constantly while they dry. You can achieve the same result by cutting notches in a cardboard box or a pair of wooden blocks, setting the blank in the grooves, and rotating the sections manually every few minutes. Allow 12-24 hours between coats.

Apply your varnish or epoxy with a good finishing brush 1/8" to 1/4" wide. Use a flowing motion to spread the finish, rotating the blank, and moving the brush in line with the grain of the thread. You want to achieve a smooth, even finish, so avoid side-to-side motions, and apply the finish sparingly. You can always add an extra coat if you use too little finish. Too much finish is a much harder problem to solve. Let the finish soak into the wraps--do not try scrubbing or working the finish into the thread as you will end up with air bubbles, and a messy, bumpy finished product.

Use the heat of a lamp immediately after application to soften epoxy rod finish, and remove minor imperfections left by the brush or air bubbles.

MOUNTING THE REEL SEAT
When your final coat of epoxy has cured, your last step will be to mount the reel seat. As with the grip, it's up to you to make it fit your blank. You may have to use a tapered reamer or round file to bore out the hole in the reel seat if the seat is too small for your blank. If the seat is too large, use masking tape to build two tape arbors to make up the difference in the blank diameter and the reelseat bore diameter.

Use 5-minute epoxy to fasten the reel seat to the rod blank. Make sure to align the reel seat with the line guides before the epoxy cures.

Once you have a snug fit, cover the masking tape arbors and the inside of the reelseat with 5-minute epoxy, and affix the reel seat to the rod. Immediately check the alignment of the reel seat to make sure the hoods and/or the mortise is in line with the guides. Once your project is complete, make to to protect your rod with a good rod tube and bag.