It's important to understand the pros and cons of various types of waders and wading gear. I'm a big fan of neoprene waders. They insulate you from the cold water, cushion your legs against bruises, and provide some floatation if you take a spill. In this respect, they are the safest waders. They typically fit snugly, preventing a great deal of water from getting inside if you go down. Their disadvantages are that they can be hot in warm weather, and they are bulky in the gear bag.

All other waders--coated nylon, rubberized fabric, or the newest breathable materials--present a real risk of filling with water and making it difficult to move once you are immersed, unless you are wearing a properly-adjusted wader belt. A strong wader belt should be a fundamental part of your wading equipment, and, like a seat belt, you should put it on whenever you don your waders. Make it part of your routine, like lacing up your boots. I prefer a broad elastic wader belt so I can breathe easily.

If you wear moisture-wicking clothing underneath your breathable waders, you should have no problems with heat or moisture building up inside. You should wear your belt around your waist in moderate water and cinch it high on your chest when you wade into deeper water. This allows you to trap as much air as possible and prevent your waders from filling if you wade over the top.

If you fall into the river and get swept away, spread your arms to keep your head above water and point your legs downstream so that you can push off rocks as you drift. A wading belt tight around your chest (left) will slow the rate at which your waders fill with water. Waders full of water become heavy and make it difficult to move. Water pressure will squeeze the air out of the waders but will not keep water from entering them.

The right footwear is as important as your choice of waders. At the very least, you should wear felt-soled wading shoes. The felt grips slippery rocks as you wade, giving you good traction.

Specialized wading soles, like Korkers, Stream Cleats, and felt soles with studs, are essential on some difficult-to-wade streams, such as the Deschutes or the North Umpqua. You should take the time to learn how to use them and to appreciate their limitations. While they provide added traction in slippery stream bottoms, they are more difficult to walk in and they add weight to your feet, which can be an advantage in difficult wading but a disadvantage if you get swept off your feet (they also scar the surfaces of boats and floors).

Corkers work well on "greased cannonballs" (algae-covered stream rocks), but they can be slippery on dry river rocks. Stream Cleats also provide traction on algae-covered rocks, but they can instantly cut a fly line if you catch it between your boot and a rock. Rubber-soled boots work poorly on anything but sandy, silty, or gravely stream bottoms. The new sticky rubber soles are fine for moderate waters, but they work poorly on swift-flowing rivers where the rocks are slippery and the force of the water can push your feet out from under you.

No matter which wading boot, shoe, or boot-foot wader you choose, ankle support is critical for safe wading. A strong wading shoe or boot provides the support that helps to prevent the ankle-turning foot slippages that lead to spills.

The Wading Staff
I believe a wading staff is the most useful tool an angler can have on a freestone waters. A staff isn't necessary in small streams, spring creeks, and shallow waters, but in a rocky freestone river, where depth and current velocities are factors, it provides safety and the difference between fishing success and failure. In freestoners--typical of trout water across the country--the fly fisher who uses a staff can usually outfish the wader who doesn't, and he will take fewer swims.

Most wading staffs are more hazard than help, particularly the collapsible models that screw together or are shock-corded. They are adequate for occasional use in rivers with moderate flows and cobble or gravel bottoms. But use them on a river of boulders and they soon become wedged and pulled apart, or they may separate at a critical moment when you are crossing a swift current.

You should carry a solid staff that will not come apart under any circumstances and will bear your full weight when you lean on it to prevent a fall. Evaluate a wading staff as if your safety depends on it, because if you wade aggressively, sooner or later it will.

I am partial to metal ski poles with the baskets removed. They are typically made of tempered aluminum, and strong and light in weight. They are readily available from ski rental shops in the late winter when they are discarding single or mismatched poles.

If you wade swift water alone, use your wading staff for support and to probe the water before you step. Keep the staff connected to your vest so you don't lose it. The line should have a break-away safety release so it doesn't become an anchor if you fall and the staff becomes wedged on the stream bottom.

An alternative is to invest in a pair of new poles and keep one as a spare or give it to your fishing buddy. Choose a pole that reaches from the ground to your armpit when you are standing up straight. It will help you stay upright in the river, reach up for flies in overhead branches, and probe ahead for underwater hazards.

A common objection to carrying a metal wading staff is that it is noisy. Wrapping the bottom two feet with duct tape and placing the staff carefully between rocks as you wade will minimize the noise. (Most freestone streams are noisy environments. Stick your head underwater and you'll be surprised at the ambient noise.) As an alternative to the ski pole, use a wooden, graphite, or fiberglass staff.

The staff will not get in your way if you rig it as I have shown in the accompanying photograph. Attach the cord to the D-ring in the middle of the back of your vest or your wader suspenders. When you need the staff, simply reach behind, grab the cord and straighten your arm to put the staff in your hand.