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Southwest (California)
Searching for Sierra Gold
California's wilderness area hold pure golden trout and adventure for hardy anglers.

The golden trout is larger than life. It's not just a trout, but an embodiment of trout fishing literally taken to its highest realm. Because they dwell in our highest, starkest, and most remote terrain, goldens are not a casual pursuit. They provide a true quest for adventurous fly fishers.

Ralph Cutter Photo
The Volcano Creek Golden Trout (above) is the California state fish, and thrives in many high Sierra lakes.

In California's Sierra Mountains, golden trout occupy a handful of roadside waters, but most of these locations are jealously guarded secrets. Most Sierra goldens touted as easily accessible by car are invariably rainbow trout with only a hint of golden trout in their genetic lineage. Monache Meadows at the extreme southern end of the Sierra is frequently described as offering excellent roadside golden trout angling. One author even said those waters are "too good to be true;" unwittingly, he was right. The golden trout of the Monache Meadows area have grossly hybridized with rainbows and are at best ugly stepsisters of their purebred backcountry cousins.

In the high Sierra, however, goldens live in virtually every water, in high mountain streams and thousands of small and large lakes. The heaviest concentrations are found in the southern half of the range, and one of the best places to find them, especially for first-time seekers of gold, is in the Golden Trout Wilderness, a remote high-altitude area with dozens of lakes ranging from shallow ponds to 100-foot-deep waters of hundreds of acres.

The most convenient access to the Golden Trout Wilderness is via the Cottonwood Lakes trailhead, but there are other ways in and various outfitters can take you there. The Cottonwood Lakes are perched at 10,000 feet just west of the town of Lone Pine, a tourist town with several sporting goods stores that cater to backcountry travelers.

The Cottonwood Lakes trailhead has several improved campgrounds (complete with corrals for horsepackers) and is within spitting distance of several creeks brimming with tiny but beautiful goldens. This is one place you can catch real golden trout from your tailgate.

To reach good golden trout lakes, however, you will need to hike a minimum of three hours above the tree line. The lakes are clustered together, so if you arrive at one and find it closed or someone is already fishing it, you can easily walk to others a few minutes away.

The State Fish
The Sierra have three types of golden trout. The Volcano Creek golden is so strikingly unique that it has been designated the California state fish and has been liberally stocked throughout the Sierra, several Western states, and even Canada, Europe, and Africa. The Little Kern golden trout survives only in the Little Kern River watershed, and the Kern River rainbow is only found in the mainstem Kern and a few of its tributaries.

Ralph Cutter Photo
In California's high Sierra, you can find golden trout in most streams and hundreds of small and large lakes. The walk in to the lakes of the Golden Trout Wilderness via the Cottonwood Lakes trailhead takes at least three hours.

Sierra goldens don't grow large because the nutrient-poor waters in which they live provide little food. Although the state record is nearly 10 pounds, most fish run from 8 to 12 inches long, and anything over 18 inches earns bragging rights.

You can find large goldens in Wyoming's Wind River Mountains, fish descended from goldens transplanted there decades ago from the Sierra. Unlike the Sierra lakes, Wind River Range stillwaters are rich with scuds and daphnia, and they are intelligently managed for quality trout.

Large golden trout typically dwell in deep waters, and fly fishers get a chance at them only during spawning, which occurs just after ice-out in June to early July when snow is still on the ground.

Most anglers visit the Sierra in July, August, and September. For me, the early-summer ice-out period provides a perfect combinationÑbig trout and few people. The fishing season opens July 1 in the Golden Trout Wilderness and snow closes the area by October. Some Sierra lakes are open year-round; others open in April or May.

Fishing for Gold
As trout leave the lakes to spawn in tributary streams, they are suckers for roe (egg) flies. Orange 3mm pom-poms (available at craft stores) speared on a #14 hook and held in place with a few turns of thread are irresistible. Trout eggs are virtually weightless, so it's best to use a split-shot a few inches up the leader rather than weight the fly. The bright fly in crystal-clear water makes for exciting visual grabs. You should set the hook the instant the fly disappears so you hook the fish in the mouth. (A fish can deeply inhale an egg pattern, causing serious injury.)

Genetically, goldens are kissing cousins to the rainbow trout, and their feeding habits are identical. In creeks they can be so easy to catch that fishing for them becomes boring, with catches as high as 100 per day. Stream goldens also eat nymphs, but they are so susceptible to drys that I rarely bother with subsurface presentations.

Lake-dwelling goldens are an entirely different ball game. On lakes, dry-fly presentations must be delicate, and drag is poison. I typically use a 6-foot 5X or 6X tippet on a 10- or 12-foot leader. Short-striking fish are often a sign of subtle drag, and when this happens, I lengthen the tippet and make sure the fly is attached with a loop knot to reduce microdrag, and I cast into the wind so the fly drifts naturally with the breeze rather than skating on a taut leader.

Golden trout are opportunistic feeders and rarely pass by an offering as long as you don't give it too much movement. During daylight hours they feed along lake margins or on the bottom. Their favorite food item is case-building caddis larvae (Limnephilidae). Although there are exact imitations on the market, I've found the standard Pheasant-tail Nymph to be as good as any. When a golden swims into view, allow the nymph to settle on the lake bottom and give it a subtle twitch.

It's difficult to catch large goldens under the bright Sierra sun. Your best chance is with streamers worked deep in the blue water, along the shadows near the lake shore, or against boulders. Bright, flashy flies can spook goldens in clear water, so stick with Woolly Buggers, Muddlers, and Clouser Minnows tied in earth tones.

Dawn and dusk are prime times to catch goldens. Under subdued light, the fish reveal themselves and feed freely on the surface. Midges provide mainstay food for golden trout; thus you should devote a fly box strictly to these imitations. The E/C Caddis (#18-#24) is my number-one fly in the high country, and it doubles as an excellent midge pattern. Brian Chan's Chironomid pupa and Randall Kaufmann's Timberline Emerger are also outstanding golden flies, and sometimes a generic black parachute dun takes fish when all else fails.

In my fly-fishing travels I've seen many beautiful fish in spectacular waters, but nothing more wonderful than the golden trout. It is a treasure unlike any other, and few anglers experience its beauty. If you finally capture that living, breathing golden nugget splashing in your hands, treat it carefully; release it gently. Smile at your great fortune.

Golden Trout Wilderness
The Golden Trout Wilderness is a good place for do-it-yourself anglers. If you want a guided trip, you may have to fish other areas of the Sierra. Frontier Pack Trains, (760) 648-7701, and Bishop Pack Outfitters, (760) 873-4785, can take you in on horseback. Expect to pay about $150 per day and up to $895 for a five-day trip.

The U.S. Forest Service requires backcountry users to obtain a wilderness permit. Contact the Forest Service, (888) 374-3773, for an application. Bicycles and dogs are not allowed in the area. Fires are restricted and firewood is scarce. It is better to use a gas stove. You must carry out everything that you carry in.

Ralph Cutter Photo
High alpine lakes in the Golden Trout Wilderness southwest of the town of Lone Pine (Highway 395) provide the most challenging golden trout fishing in the Sierras. Stream fishing is sometimes too easy.

Sierra weather is unpredictable, so be prepared for everything from scorching sun to midsummer snow storms. The weather can change quickly. It is not uncommon for daytime temperatures to reach the 70s (F.) or 80s, then plummet when afternoon thunderstorms roll in, sometimes dropping several inches of snow. Since temperatures at night often drop well below freezing, afternoon snows can stay on the ground until the next morning, when the bright sun and warmer temperatures melt it.

Backcountry travelers go prepared for these temperature extremes. They wear layers of clothing in cold temperatures and peel off layers as the mercury rises. Since the air in the high Sierra is clear and it's easy to get sunburn, they wear long sleeves even in warm temperatures.

Hypothermia, altitude sickness, and lightning are the most common environmental hazards, but every year a few backcountry users get bit by rattlesnakes (myself included), break bones, have heart attacks, and even die. You'll read all about these hazards and more in the literature provided with your wilderness permit.

Use common sense, read about the area, and consider using a professional outfitter for your first taste of the backcountry.

[The author's book, Sierra Trout Guide, provides a complete listing of lakes and streams containing golden trout. Information on golden trout and licensed Sierra backcountry outfitters is also available from the California Department of Fish and Game, (916) 653-7664. The Editors.]


Ralph Cutter is a fly-fishing instructor, author, and guide. He lives in Truckee, California.


 
 

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