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Crowsnest River Geography

The Crowsnest River flows through Crowsnest Pass, a region rich in coal-mining history dating back more than 100 years. All of the coal mines in the Pass are now closed. The historic towns of Coleman, Blairmore, Frank, Hillcrest, and Bellevue located along the river valley have amalgamated and together they form the Municipality of the Crowsnest Pass. Their combined population totals approximately 7,000 people. All the modern amenities, including motels, campgrounds, restaurants, and service stations are available in these communities.

The upper Crowsnest River flows from Crowsnest Lake and offers views of nearby Crowsnest Mountain (shown above). The trout are smaller in the upper reaches but the seclusion is often worthwhile.

The main source of the Crowsnest River is Crowsnest Lake, located along the Alberta/British Columbia boundary. The river travels in an easterly direction through the mountains and communities of the Crowsnest Pass before entering Oldman Dam Reservoir near the village of Cowley, approximately 30 miles downstream.

When fishing the upper reaches near the lake, anglers are treated to excellent views of the Flathead and High Rock ranges of the Rocky Mountains. The river is relatively small here and it's not until several other tributaries join in a bit further downstream before it begins to increase in size. Trout are plentiful in this section, but average less than 12 inches in length. There are larger fish present and if you're willing to do some exploring, you may be pleasantly surprised. Fishing pressure is light, compared to the more productive and heavily fished waters below the town of Frank. When the river's lower sections become discolored during spring runoff, the upper reaches usually remain clear and fishable—something to keep in mind if you're planning to fish the Crowsnest early in the season. If you enjoy solitude and great scenery, this section of river will not disappoint you. Chances are the trout won't let you down you, either!

The river meanders for about five miles from Crowsnest Lake before it reaches the town of Coleman. It flows past old, abandoned mine buildings and through several residential areas before heading toward Blairmore, the largest community in the Pass. Portions of the river flowing through these towns were channelized many years ago for flood control, and to make room for Highway 3, the Canadian Pacific Railway line, housing developments, and various coal-mining activities. Although portions of the river in Coleman and Blairmore have been altered, it continues to support healthy populations of trout. The harsh changes made to the river long ago have softened with time and it can be quite pleasant fishing through each of these towns. The close proximity to the communities makes this section of river popular with local anglers. It's also a favorite place for kids to swim or float on inner tubes, particularly during hot summer days.

Once the river leaves Blairmore it skirts the town of Frank and continues until it reaches the base of Turtle Mountain and the Frank Slide. The Crowsnest Pass has experienced numerous tragedies in its history, including the Frank Slide disaster. In the early hours of April 29, 1903, while most of the residents of Frank were asleep, more than 90 million tons of limestone broke from the face of Turtle Mountain. The massive block of stone shattered into millions of pieces, some as large as two-story houses, as it crashed down the mountain slope. The rockslide crossed the river and continued up the opposite side of the valley before coming to rest. Most of the town remained out of the slide's path. However, a row of houses and several ranches on the east end of Frank were completely covered. Approximately 70 lives were lost; most remain buried beneath the sea of rock and stone.

At the base of the mountain the river widens, forming a small lake (locally known as Frank Lake), before continuing toward Hillcrest and Bellevue. As it flows toward these towns the river's productivity begins to improve, largely as a result of nutrients it receives from the sewage treatment plants in Frank and Hillcrest. Phosphates and nitrates released into the river artificially enrich its waters, producing algae—food for aquatic insects, which in turn become food for the river's trout. The Crowsnest River produces a plethora of insect life, providing an abundant food supply for its fish. The average size of fish increases downstream of the Frank Slide, and 12- to 16-inch trout are common. Trout measuring to 20 inches and larger are also present. This section contains numerous riffles, runs and pools, all of which support good numbers of fish.

The river continues to flow east for 15 miles before reaching Lundbreck Falls. Mountains and forests are gradually replaced by rolling foothills and ranching country through this stretch. While public access remains good, much of the land adjacent to the river is private. Access the river above Lundbreck Falls from the East Hillcrest and Highway 507 bridges, or at the Oldman Chapter of Trout Unlimited property lease, one and a half miles west of Highway 507. In 2002, the TU Chapter acquired a 25-year lease of Crown land along a mile and a half stretch of river near Burmis Lake. This portion of river is open to everyone, with walk-in access only. A day-use area, maintained by the Hillcrest Fish and Game Association, located at Burmis Lake, serves as the parking/access area.

Below Lundbreck Falls, the river flows through a provincial campground and then continues for another five miles to its confluence with the Oldman Dam Reservoir. Direct access to the water can be gained at Lundbreck Falls, the campground, or the Highway 3 bridge near the village of Lundbreck. Also, several landowners on the lower section of river permit public access. Signs indicating where to park are posted along a gravel road that follows the river, immediately north of Highway 3. Downstream of the highway, the river valley widens, providing excellent views of the Livingstone Mountain Range rising along the western skyline.

The Crowsnest is known for its fine dry-fly fishing and large wild rainbow trout. Most fish run between 14 and 18 inches but 20-inch fish are not uncommon.

When fishing in this area, you'll notice some sections contain various in-stream structures, including V-weirs, wing deflectors, and boulder gardens. The provincial government constructed them in the late 1980s and early '90s, as part of the Fisheries Mitigation Program related to the controversial Oldman River Dam. When the dam was completed in 1991, it inundated nearly 30 miles of the Oldman, Castle and Crowsnest rivers. Five miles of the lower Crowsnest were flooded by the reservoir. Some of the enhancement structures were designed to control stream-bank erosion, whereas others were built to create fish habitat and overwintering pools. Whether or not the government's multi-million dollar fisheries habitat enhancement program achieved its objective of "no net loss of recreational fishing opportunities" is questionable. While some of the man-made structures remain intact and are functioning, others are ineffective or were washed away in a 1995 flood.

Vic Bergman owns The Crowsnest Angler fly shop in Bellevue, Alberta. He also guides on the nearby Oldman and Castle rivers in Alberta and the Elk River in British Columbia.

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