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Destinations 2023 Preview: Sheep Dung and Sea Trout

Befriending the wind on Patagonia's Rio Penitente and Rio Gallegos.

Destinations 2023 Preview: Sheep Dung and Sea Trout

These fish have unmistakable power. (Zach Heath photo)

The first dramatic moment of my trip to El Rincon Lodge started and ended in a pile of sheep droppings. A rainstorm in the Andean headwaters of the Rio Gallegos rendered the river nearly unfishable. The ochre of the surrounding countryside stained even the normally pristine upper tributaries. I spent our first day coming up empty while exhausting almost all the options in my fly box.

The water needed to come down. Until then, I decided that bigger was better as I knotted a Kreh loop through the eye of my favorite olive articulated streamer. My stealthy approach to the pool was probably unnecessary; the opaque water likely hid my presence from the fish anyway. My superfluous covert efforts were a comical sight for Fede, my guide that day. Sheep excrement smeared across my waders as I crawled down the bank and toward the river. As I was casting into the riffle at the head of the pool, the water erupted as an impressive sea trout struck the fly. I’m not sure if the reel or my voice squealed louder as the fish took my line and headed for the depths of the pool below.

A collage of brown trout fishing in Patagonia photos.
(Zach Heath photos)

Fede set down his cigarette on the back of his Toyota Hilux and reached for a net of the size normally found on deep sea fishing vessels. He excitedly coached me to direct the fish toward the shallows, and away from a log deeper in the pool, where he knew I’d likely be ensnared. But I wasn’t in charge of this battle. I was at the fish’s mercy as it dragged me up and down the pool several times before it started to tire.

To read the full story, pick up a copy of Fly Fisherman's special publication Destinations 2023 here!

A wader-clad fly angler kneeling and holding a large brown trout, smiling at the camera.
Get your copy of Destinations 2023 here. (Zach Heath photo)

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