Fly Fishing Cheesman Canyon: History, Access, and Spring Strategies on the South Platte

This article was originally titled "Spring Strategies for Cheesman" in the April-May 2019 issue of Fly Fisherman. 

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The picturesque, boulder-filled Cheesman Canyon section of the South Platte River is considered by many to be one of the most pristine trout fisheries in the world. Cheesman Canyon is nestled between Pikes Peak to the south and the panoramic Rampart Range to the north. This area is often affectionately referred to as “the canyon” by fly-fishing aficionados, and your journey here is an experience you will likely never forget. From the base of 221-foot Cheesman Dam, the South Platte River carves its way through a rose-colored granite canyon lined with ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, blue spruce, and willow. Boulders as big as Volkswagen Beetles create structure for the super-selective rainbows and browns residing in the river below.

Cheesman Reservoir was built in 1905 and named for Walter Scott Cheesman, the president of the Denver Union Water Company. Cheesman Reservoir was Denver’s first mountain water storage facility and was constructed to meet the demands of half a million people regardless of drought or other water needs. Cheesman Dam was built 60 miles upstream from downtown Denver to offset the ever-growing population and meet the water needs of the metropolitan area. At the same time, the Platte Canyon Reservoir and Filter Plant was built to process the water to be delivered to the Denver metro area.

When Cheesman Reservoir was completed, it was the highest arch dam in the world. In 1973 Cheesman Dam was designated a National Civil Engineering Landmark and is considered one of the engineering marvels of the 20th century.

No roads parallel the fabled Cheesman Canyon fishery. As you approach this wilderness area (Pike National Forest), it appears that you’re in the backcountry and miles from civilization. Access is via the Gill Trail, named for one of the early settlers in the area, Henry C. Gill.

In 1908 Gill purchased a large chunk of land—which is now the Wigwam Club—from homesteaders and former miners. Gill raised cattle and ran a sawmill where the Cheesman Trailhead parking lot is today (formerly the Wigwam Campground).

He built living quarters that consisted of a kitchen, bunkhouse, and small dining room (where the current manager’s office of the Wigwam Club is today) for his ranch hands and mill crews.

Later, Gill advertised his place as a fishing resort for businessmen from the Colorado Springs and Denver areas. In 1920 the resort was sold for $16,000 to Frederick G. Bonfils, whose primary goal was to make it a world-class fishing club. The Wigwam Club still remains one of the most famous fishing clubs in the world.

The Gill Trail starts just off CR 126 and runs adjacent to the canyon for 3.5 miles. Many anglers avoid the walk into Cheesman Canyon and fish the Deckers area of the South Platte instead because they’ve heard rumors of how difficult the hike can be.

If you’re not accustomed to high altitudes (6,300 to 6,600 feet), it may seem difficult, but if you’re in reasonably good shape, the hike isn’t all that bad.

The journey into the lower canyon takes a minimum of 25 minutes, but no doubt you’ll break a good sweat as you proceed toward the canyon’s lip. The farther you go into the canyon, the fewer people you encounter. I prefer to hike two-thirds of the way up the Gill Trail to get away from the crowds and intense fishing pressure, especially on weekends.

The Gill Trailhead may be reached several ways: First, from US 285 near Pine Junction, turn south on CR 126 and follow it for approximately 18 miles toward the small community of Deckers. The parking lot is on the right side of the road at the bottom of the hill where the road sweeps to the left. A brown sign states Cheesman Canyon Trailhead. If you reach the Wigwam Club, you’ve gone too far!

The second option is to travel through the small town of Sedalia from Denver. To do so, take US 85 south from Denver to Sedalia, then go southwest on CO 67 for approximately 28 miles to Deckers.

The third option (which I prefer) is to follow the second route, but to follow CO 67 for approximately 13 miles to the small community of Sprucewood. When you approach a fork in the road near the town, take the right fork onto Pine Creek Road, then go approximately 3 miles to the river road. Take a left at the T onto CR 97, and follow the paved road for 10 miles to Deckers.

From Deckers, take a right onto CR 126, and the Gill Trail is approximately 2.7 miles ahead on the left side of the road at the former Wigwam Campground. The old parking lot on the right-hand side of the road is closed, but there’s a new parking facility a third of a mile to the west. A new trail has been designed from the new parking lot (formerly the overflow lot for the Wigwam Campground) to shorten the walk to the lip of the canyon.

To get to Cheesman Canyon from Colorado Springs, take US 24 west to Woodland Park. Turn right on CO 67 and follow it for approximately 22 miles to Deckers. This is a long, winding road; the drive seems much longer than it is. Turn left onto CR 126 and proceed to the parking area, which is about 2.7 miles west of Deckers.

Anglers can also enter the canyon from below Cheesman Reservoir. From CR 126, take CR 211 to Cheesman Reservoir. Look for the parking facility on the left side of the road. The upper parking lot holds only a few cars, so plan accordingly.

Follow the designated trail to the river, traversing up and over some aggressive terrain before you end up near the gauging station. Plan on this hike taking approximately 45 minutes to an hour. A cable is strung across the river 25 yards above the gauging station, which indicates the no-fishing zone below the reservoir. (Note: You may also access the upper canyon by walking upstream 3.5 miles from the lower parking lot. It takes approximately two hours from the lower parking facility to reach the gauging station.)

I typically begin a day’s fishing from the lower end of the Gill Trail. You’ll need a good backpack stocked with supplies for your trip into the canyon. Items you should consider are plenty of water, a hearty sack lunch, a first-aid kit, sunscreen, a rain jacket, a camera, and your normal fly-fishing apparel. I strongly recommend wearing waders in Cheesman Canyon, as the water is extremely cold most of the year. Some anglers opt to wet wade when the reservoir is spilling and the water temperatures rise into the mid to upper 50s.

I prefer to enter the canyon with all my fishing gear in my backpack and suit up when I get to the area I want to fish. Since the walk is rigorous, hiking in your waders and vest is sometimes a bit uncomfortable, especially if you plan to fish the upper canyon. Something else to consider is that the walk can produce excessive wear on your waders and wading shoes, so if you pack your gear in, you won’t need to replace it as soon.

An ideal flow for Cheesman Canyon is between 250 and 400 cfs. Winter releases (November–February) average between 50 and 75 cfs, increased spring flows (March–May) average between 150 and 300 cfs, summer flows (June–August) range from 250 to 900 cfs, and autumn flows range from 125 to 300 cfs. Anything over 700 cfs is high on this section of the South Platte, and the fast, roily currents make for challenging fishing.

Many of the fishing holes from the base of the dam to the Wigwam Club have names courtesy of the late Tuck Skier and his buddies. In fact, many of the old-timers set up camps (such as Johnson’s Camp, Cleo’s Camp, and so on) in the middle canyon and spent numerous nights in the woods. I encourage everyone to learn the names of the holes; the canyon’s rich history only adds to the experience.

A detailed map at the top of the Gill Trail pinpoints these specific locations. Local fly shops also carry maps which further aid in learning the different holes. You can also find a detailed map in the new edition of my book Fly Fishing the South Platte River (Stackpole Books, 2019).

These resources can help you to get your bearings in the area and choose where you’d like to fish. Once again, don’t get trapped into fishing the same hole over and over again based on prior success. This rationale limits your growth as an angler. Above all, have fun out there and be respectful of other fly fishers. There are 21 named pools and there are always places to find a place to fish without crowding other anglers.

Spring Strategies

By the first part of March, the canyon’s frigid temperatures begin to climb and anglers start to experience reliable midday midge hatches. The shaded areas offer excellent opportunities to catch a few fish on dry flies. March and April are two of the snowiest months of the year, so don’t be fooled by the springlike conditions. The weather can change rapidly on the Front Range! These spring storms are typically heavy and wet, but the snow disappears quickly with the mild temperatures.

By mid-March the big spring midge begins to become a major factor when choosing flies. The spring midge is large by South Platte standards—as a matter of fact, anything over a size 18 is gigantic in the Cheesman Canyon section of the South Platte. It’s not uncommon to see two sizes of midges hatching at once. The second midge is the small midge, which is usually about a size 24.

To match the hatch, you’ll need a size 18 midge pupa trailed by a size 22-24 pupa. Throughout the spring, one of my top rigs is a size 18 Bead Head Black Beauty or Medallion Midge Pupa dropped with a size 24 Top Secret Midge or standard Black Beauty. Dry-fly fishing with adults is good in the slow, slack areas, such as the Ice Box and the Emerald Pool. As previously mentioned, serious dry-fly enthusiasts can find rising fish in the Ice Box year-round! A size 24 Cannon’s Suspender Midge, size 22 Matt’s Midge, or size 24-26 Parachute Adams is recommended for this time of year.

By the third week of March, the rainbows begin to spawn.

One of the biggest areas of spawning activity is in the Steel Riffles, so take extra care not to step on the redds in this section. As you might imagine, egg patterns become effective in the shallow riffles and deeper slots below spawning flats.

Large Kamloops rainbows, identifiable by their steel-blue color and enormous size, migrate out of the Wigwam Club starting mid-March. Fish up to 8 pounds are caught every year in the lower canyon when the Kamloops migrate upriver. It’s not uncommon to see Kamloops between 22 and 27 inches during this annual spawning run.

I’ve had my best success with a micro chartreuse egg pattern dropped with a flashy midge or Baetis nymph when trying to fool Kamloops rainbows. While I’ve seen most of these fish between the Family Hole and Emerald Pool, occasionally you’ll find them as high as the Cattle Crossing. After the Kamloops rainbows spawn, they typically return to the Wigwam Club.

Resident fish begin spawning in April and continue through June. Peak spawning activity is between May and June because of the cold water that flows from the base of the dam. Water temperatures that remain in the 40s delay the spawn in comparison to other stretches of the South Platte River.

It’s never a bad idea to fish with an egg-midge or egg-Baetis nymph combination this time of year. Orange scuds work well during the height of the spawning season too, especially when the flows are above 250 cfs. The spawning season typically coincides with spring runoff, so scuds are a great option because the trout are always looking for scuds or eggs that get washed from the substrate. In many cases, I believe the trout are taking an orange scud pattern for an egg.

April is Blue-Winged Olive time and the awakening of Cheesman Canyon trout. Flows begin to gradually rise, and fish move into the riffles and start to look for Baetis nymphs. Mercury Baetis, Stalcup’s Baetis, Jujubaetis, Chocolate Foam Wing Emergers, and Sparkle Wing RS2s in sizes 20-22 become the standard fly selection during this time. Don’t overlook midges—they continue to be an integral part of the trout’s diet all summer long, especially in the mornings and evenings.

A recommended rig for this time of year is a size 22 Mercury Midge dropped by a size 22 Stalcup’s Baetis. This set meets all Cheesman criteria: It consists of one mayfly and one midge, which Cheesman trout eat at any given time in the spring months.

Make sure you tie your Stalcup’s Baetis thin and sparse. If you opt to fish with a third fly, it’s hard to go wrong with a size 20 Chocolate Foam Wing Emerger.

The spring Blue-Winged Olive hatches are nothing short of excellent. You’ll find several rising fish in the Meat Hole, Emerald Pool, Ice Box, Jamboree, Blitz, and Rainbow Pools just after 1 p.m. Overcast days provide optimum conditions to find rising trout.

Prior to the hatch, nymphing is fantastic with small mayfly nymphs. It’s enjoyable to watch this mayfly hatch unfold and how the fish respond to it. The switch from midges to mayflies is subtle at first, but the savvy angler preplans his or her fishing location based on prior knowledge of this hatch. All of a sudden the fish move from the deep slots into prime feeding lanes toward the front end of the runs.

Large rainbows and a few medium-size browns seemingly come out of nowhere and suspend themselves, feeding voraciously on these Baetis nymphs and emergers. Baetis nymphs are excellent swimmers, so it’s not uncommon to see trout moving as far as 18 inches to eat a mayfly nymph prior to emergence. During the height of a Blue-Winged Olive hatch, many of the strikes occur on the swing, especially in the tailouts of a pool.

As mentioned earlier, only a few anglers understand the complexity of this hatch. The fish now begin to feed exclusively on mayflies (selective feeding) for the next two hours. A well-seasoned angler makes a fly change: two or three mayfly nymphs, typically consisting of a size 20 Jujubaetis as the attractor, and drop a size 22 Stalcup’s Baetis (it’s tied on a 2X long hook), size 20 Mercury Baetis, size 20 Chocolate Foam Wing Emerger, or size 20 Sparkle Wing RS2.

Only a small amount of weight (split-shot) is required because the fish are suspended and feeding aggressively. Usually one size 6 split shot is enough lead, but in some cases, in swifter currents, you may need to add some JP’s Nymphing Mud (moldable tungsten putty) over the split shot. It becomes mandatory to adjust the indicator and weight to get the correct depth the fish are feeding at. Once you figure this out, you should hook several trout in a two-hour period. I assure you, this is some of the best nymph fishing of the year in Cheesman Canyon!

May is typically the start of spring runoff and higher-than-normal flows, which indicates the end of the spring season and the start of summer in Cheesman Canyon.

Rehabilitating Gill Trail

The 1-mile journey to the river from Cheesman Reservoir used to be physically demanding and tiresome, but recent trail improvements have made the excursion into the upper end and the area referred to as “The Wall” (0.75 mile below the dam) much easier thanks to Sharon Lance, a member of Trout Unlimited dedicated to the conservation of coldwater fisheries, the Denver Water Department, the US Forest Service, and the Cutthroat Chapter of Trout Unlimited. Thousands of volunteer hours donated by fly-fishing clubs, Trout Unlimited members, and other anglers have truly made a positive impact on the entire Gill Trail and the well-being of Cheesman Canyon.

The lower 2 miles of the canyon needed substantial improvements as well. The Gill Trail—some 40-plus years old—was beginning to show signs of wear and tear.

The proposed repairs appeared to overwhelm the two largest tenants, Denver Water and the US Forest Service, and at this juncture the Cutthroat Chapter entered the scene. As a result, a special trail committee was assigned, and other consultants with 15-plus years of experience in trail design and layout lent their expertise.

The Gill Trail is hiked by at least 40,000 outdoor enthusiasts every year, but most of these hikers are anglers. The end result is erosion, which eventually has a detrimental impact on the fishery. In fact, the decomposed granite and severe erosion had made the trail unsafe in certain areas. In order to access the canyon, anglers would have to slip-slide their way there, sidestepping these tiny pieces of slick granite. The whole experience could be compared to walking on ball bearings coated with Crisco.

After decades of use, several social trails (shortcuts to key fishing locations) added to the severe erosion as anglers tried to get to the river to fish their favorite holes. Erosion wasn’t the only problem, though. To everyone’s surprise, there is a federally protected butterfly, the Pawnee montane skipper, that only lives in the Cheesman Canyon area. Its blue grama grass habitat was in jeopardy due to anglers walking around haphazardly, trying to find a fishing location.

It was clear that the rehabilitation process was long overdue. The social trails have since been eliminated and replaced with new trails specifically for river access. Rock walls have been put in place to support the surrounding structures, and fallen trees have been removed from the immediate trail area and utilized as erosion-blocking structures. Mulch has been placed in certain areas to further guard against erosion.

This took a lot of hard work from volunteers over the past several years, so please respect it. Stay on the designated trails, and avoid creating new social trails. If you see someone violating these rules, politely encourage them to stay on the designated trail and let them know about the Cheesman Canyon restoration project. The Cutthroat Chapter of Trout Unlimited continues to monitor and maintain the Gill Trail, but it takes everyone working together to keep the canyon in good condition.

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